Cosmetic Raw Material Efficacy Interpretation Series-Repair

Release time:

2022-06-28 09:08

The last three articles in this series:

Cosmetic raw material efficacy interpretation series-preservatives

Cosmetic Raw Material Efficacy Interpretation Series-Spot-removing Whitening

Cosmetic Raw Material Efficacy Interpretation Series-Oil Control

Human skin barrier can be divided into five layers, namely mechanical barrier, which refers to the outermost stratum corneum, which can prevent mechanical damage. Physical barrier, composed of stratum corneum and sebum membrane, similar to brick wall structure; Chemical barrier refers to the acidic protective film on the skin surface, which makes normal skin weakly acidic. Immune barrier, also called microbial barrier, can maintain the micro-ecological balance on the skin surface. Pigment barrier consists of melanocytes existing in the basal layer, can absorb ultraviolet rays. The skin barrier is damaged, the role of accelerated water loss through the skin, the stratum corneum water content is greatly reduced, the irritant penetration, exposure, erythema.

The definition of repair in the "Evaluation Specification for Cosmetic Efficacy Claims" is "to help maintain the normal state of the application site", including skin and hair. The Standard for Evaluation of Cosmetic Efficacy Claims (No. 50, 2021) requires that cosmetics with repair efficacy need to undergo human efficacy tests. When the efficacy claims that the part of action is only hair, real hair in vitro can be selected for evaluation.

At present, the country has not formed a unified test system and test method for repair efficacy, but there are group standards or laboratories to establish in vitro and human test methods, mainly as follows:

in vitro test

Using human keratinocytes as the object, the repair efficacy of raw materials/products was evaluated from the following dimensions:

* Cell proliferation rate was detected by MTT assay

* ZO-1 detection by q-PCR method

* Detection of cell migration area (scratch area) by scratch test

* Detection of antimicrobial peptide AMPS expression by RT-PCR method-HBD2 HBD3

Human trials

Evaluate the repair efficacy of the product from the following dimensions on the skin of different parts of the human body:

* Skin Heme EI

* Skin color

* Skin stratum corneum moisture content

* Facial Image-Skin Red Area

* Lactic acid sting score

Generally speaking, the human body test method is high, once carried out and can not obtain the expected effect, cosmetics or raw materials enterprises is not a small loss, and in vitro efficacy test method is relatively low cost, can be used as a pre-screening test option.

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