Whitening dry goods! How to make the skin white into a fluorescent lamp?

Has been whitening, why are you still not white?

Natural black background? Acquired tanning? What is the mechanism of cosmetic raw materials about whitening claim? Which kind of whitening cosmetics has better effect?

Recently, many customers have consulted Xiao An about the registration of new cosmetics raw materials, especially the registration of new whitening raw materials. Xiao An came to pick up the current situation of common whitening cosmetics on the market and the mechanism of whitening efficacy raw materials.

Q: Can natural black whiten using whitening products?

A: No.
Natural blackness is determined by allele frequency (Allele Frequencies), just like your natural intelligence.

The number of melanocytes in people with different skin colors is not very different, but people with darker skin colors have higher levels of melanocyte activity and a greater amount of stored melanin.

Look at the inner side of your big arm and inner thigh. If you find that there is a big contrast with other places, congratulations, you are not born black.

Q: What is the reason for the "dark day?
A: The production of melanin (Melanin), of course.

In the middle of the junction between the basal layer and the dermis, there are round cells called pigment cells. The pigment cells are distributed like branches. 10-20 pigment cells are connected together to form pigment clumps. The densely arranged pigment clumps determine the color of the skin. The denser the clumps, the darker the skin color.

If exposed to ultraviolet light, pigment clumps will proliferate rapidly. Facial growth of freckles, chloasma, after the formation of trauma pigment spots, is the rapid proliferation of pigment cells, hyperplasia after the formation.

Ultraviolet rays, inflammation, skin damage, and changes in hormone levels can all cause melanin production, but most of the reasons are actually ultraviolet rays.

Q: Why do you use a lot of whitening products but not white?
A: Many girls use various whitening products, but they still can't whiten or remove spots. The reasons are as follows:
Only use whitening products but do not pay attention to sunscreen (this is the most important reason why you can't be white)!

Product selection is wrong (the formula is not at all heart, the concentration is not enough, etc.. Especially students like to buy a lot of affordable products, in fact, is not whitening formula, or there are whitening ingredients but simply can not reach the concentration of whitening needs. Of course, the concentration is not the thicker the better. The concentration of products from large factories on the market will not be particularly high, rest assured).

The dosage was wrong (the amount of sunscreen was not used enough, and the amount of whitening essence was not used according to the instructions).

Product collocation is wrong (a single form of melanin production blocking effect is not very good, antioxidant, and "three enzymes and one element" should be inhibited, in order to effectively whitening).

The skin is dehydrated (the dry stratum corneum makes it impossible for whitening products to penetrate into the substrate, so be sure to moisturize first).

Not long enough. Skin metabolism is a cycle of 28 days, and it takes more than three months for essence and cream to see the effect (of course, it is still under the condition of good sun protection). The facial mask, too, takes two or three months once a week.

Q: How to understand the whitening mechanism of cosmetics?
A: Whitening cosmetics include chemical whitening products and products that only have physical masking effects.

1. The whitening effect of cosmetics points to the effect of whitening skin by inhibiting the production of melanin and blocking the transportation of melanin, mainly through the following aspects:

Inhibition of tyrosinase activity, such as resorcinol derivatives, arbutin, hydroquinone;

Blocking the transport of melanin, such as niacinamide, certain plant extracts;

antioxidant and anti-inflammatory of various antioxidants;

2. Cosmetics with only physical covering effect refer to the use of physical covering agents, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, talcum powder or similar white powder, which are coated on the skin surface to cover the spots on the skin, so as to achieve the whitening effect, but can not change the original appearance of the skin

In addition, various acids that promote stratum corneum exfoliation and certain extracts that promote mild metabolism can accelerate keratinocyte exfoliation and make skin look more supple and shiny. Exfoliation also helps to penetrate whitening ingredients and discharge melanin, thus improving whitening effect. At present, new ideas for whitening skin have emerged in the market to realize whitening, such as anti-glycation, anti-pollution, skin cell autophagy, skin pressure regulation, etc.

It should be noted that when defining the efficacy of cosmetic raw materials, it is generally believed that raw materials that can block the production of melanin or prevent the transportation of melanin can be defined as whitening raw materials. The "milk whitening" mentioned on social media cannot be classified as whitening raw materials. Looking at all kinds of cosmetics added with milk raw materials, it is not found that whitening effect is mentioned in the cosmetics claim.

In this issue, we will give an example of whitening substances in the chemical whitening category.
(Niacinamide, arbutin, tranexamic acid, glabridin, 377)

Niacinamide is vitamin B3, as a member of the B vitamins, its direct anti-aging effect for the medical, beauty industry is well known. Widely used in clinical prevention and treatment of pellagra, glossitis, stomatitis, light sensitive dermatitis and cosmetic dermatitis treatment. Studies have shown that niacinamide in the inhibition of melanin pigmentation, anti-inflammatory and other aspects also have a good effect.

Niacinamide as a classic whitening ingredients. In addition to the traditional whitening effect,

It is also used to reduce the melanin that has been generated and precipitated, block its transfer to surface cells, accelerate cell metabolism, accelerate the exfoliation of melanin keratinocytes, etc. Molecular units are very small and can be directly absorbed by cells.

In addition to preventing melanin precipitation and promoting cell metabolism, niacinamide can also synthesize epidermal protein on the skin surface, improve skin texture, replenish skin moisture, replenish skin cell energy, enhance skin anti-wrinkle ability, avoid skin aging speed up, and promote skin smooth and even.

Niacinamide not only has an incomparable improvement and promotion effect on human skin, but also has obvious advantages in promoting the function of human hair. Niacinamide can be converted with niacin in the human body. Niacin can promote human blood circulation and dilate blood vessels, thus promoting hair growth and preventing hair loss.

Nicotinamide also has an advantage, that is, compared with other whitening ingredients, its price is low, even imported medicinal nicotinamide, a kilogram of no more than 200 yuan. Look at other whitening active ingredients: α-arbutin about 2000/kg, glassridin 13000-60000/kg, and D panthenol, a moisturizer, are all fried to 400-500 pieces/kg.

Arbutin, also known as arbutin, is a derivative of hydroquinone (hydroquinone), which is a kind of glucosylated hydroquinone derivative.

Arbutin can be divided into α-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl-α-D-glucopyranoside), β-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl-β-D-glucopyranoside), and deoxyarbutin (4-[(2-tetrahydropyran) oxy] phenol).

α-arbutin is the most expensive and the best. The limited addition is below 7%, generally around 3%. If the dosage is improper (concentration> 7%), melanin production will be promoted instead. It can inhibit melanocyte activity and reduce melanin production. The effect is more mild, less irritating, but also occasionally adverse reactions. Overall, it is safe and effective. Studies have shown that α-arbutin inhibits melanin production 10 times more effectively than β-arbutin.

The whitening effect of arbutin is derived from its influence on melanin production. The mechanism of action involves biological regulation (arbutin can inhibit melanin formation by inhibiting melanin synthesis related genes such as OCA2, TYR and sLV2), biochemical regulation (β-arbutin can directly combine with tyrosinase in vivo and in vitro to effectively inhibit melanin production) and thermodynamic regulation (prolonging the lag time of hydroxylation reaction, and as a substrate tyrosine analogs competitive binding to the active center, inhibit the oxidation of the enzyme) and other three levels.

In addition to whitening effect, arbutin also has antioxidant, treatment of urinary tract infection, cystitis, kidney stones and other physiological activities.

Tranexamic Acid Alias: Tranexamic Acid (Name in Drugs) Tranexamic Acid (Secular) Tranexamic Acid (Standard Name of Ingredients) As Shiseido Group's favorite whitening ingredient, it has been well known in recent years. Tranexamic acid was first used for surgical hemostasis. Later, it was found that the whitening effect was not bad. The final test results directly made people stare at the dog. It has a good control effect on the king of ten thousand spots. Both internal and external use have effects.

It can inhibit the production of melanin, but the most important thing is that it has a hemostatic effect. It has a very good effect on chloasma, especially the pigmentation caused by vasodilation and rupture. It is used as a skin conditioner, moisturizer and whitening agent in cosmetics. It has the factor group that inhibits the enhancement of melanin, so as to completely block the way of forming melanin due to ultraviolet radiation, so that the dark spots are no longer thickened and expanded, and effectively prevent skin pigmentation.

Many years of clinical studies have confirmed that tranexamic acid can quickly beautify and lighten spots. Compared with traditional whitening ingredients, tranexamic acid can express stable effect, limited by high temperature environment, does not need the protection of various carriers, still can achieve whitening effect, and has no irritating effect.

i

Glabridin (Glabridin) is an important component of licorice flavonoids, only the existence of licorice (licorice, European licorice, Fabaceae) root and stem, is the main component of licorice isoflavones. In the standard list of raw materials, the corresponding name of glabridin is: root extract of glabridin (Glycyrrhiza glabra).

Studies have shown that glabridin has a significant effect on regulating blood lipids and lowering blood pressure. In skin care, glabridin can eliminate free radicals and muscle melanin, is the skin whitening and anti-aging "holy". Glabridin can penetrate deep into the skin and maintain high activity. Glabridin can significantly inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and melanocytes, and effectively inhibit the production of melanin. At the same time also has to prevent skin roughness and anti-inflammatory, antibacterial effect.

The whitening effect of glabridin is 232 times that of ordinary vitamin C, 16 times higher than hydroquinone, 1164 times that of "arbutin", and there is no toxicity. The price of pure glabridin is similar to that of gold (90% of the unit price of glabridin is 210000/kg, and imported ones are more expensive). The extraction rate of glabridin was low and was limited to specific licorice varieties. If there is a product with glabridin added and the product is yellowish, it is simply a conscience product. This love is comparable to maternal love!

377 full name is Symwhite 377, which is the star product of German raw material company Dezhixin. Of course, another main business of this company is flavor business, which is also a global monopoly. The fame of 377 is not the credit of the raw material company at all. The raw material company only sells it to the downstream cosmetics company. As for the name, it doesn't matter as long as it sells well. It doesn't matter if it is called 477 or 399.

Phenethyl resorcinol has a strong antioxidant effect. This kind of ingredients are very similar to hydroquinone. They are all melanin-like raw materials-tyrosinase. From hydroquinone to arbutin, they grow very similar anyway. Only this structure can strongly inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and reduce the production of melanin. Melanin cannot be synthesized, so it has a whitening effect. It is a whitening material with multiple mechanisms at the same time.

Phenethyl resorcinol has a strong inhibitory effect on tyrosinase. The effect is more than 10 times that of kojic acid and more than 100 times that of β-arbutin. In vitro experiments have also proved that it is tens of times or even hundreds of times stronger than VC, and it has been clinically confirmed that its whitening ability is enough to compete with the whitening ability of hydroquinone. It can improve uneven skin tone and reduce skin coloration caused by ultraviolet radiation. Its strong antioxidant activity is conducive to the disappearance of melanin, and the antioxidant activity of phenethyl resorcinol is about 40% higher than that of VE and BHT at the same concentration. Phenethyl resorcinol structure and lower molecular weight (easily soluble in polar oil system) make it easier to penetrate into the stratum corneum to play whitening and freckle effect.

The most famous evidence claiming that 377 is effective is that it is 210 times stronger than kojic acid, which is very powerful data. kojic acid is already the first echelon of whitening ingredients, 377 is it really so powerful? Yes. But unfortunately it was an in vitro experiment.

But it doesn't count. We have to look at human experiments. This is the thing that is closest to the consumer experience.

In vivo data show that 0. 5% 377 is indeed a little stronger than 1% kojic acid, but there is no significant difference, so it can be considered basically the same. However, 1% kojic acid will make some people allergic to the skin. Considering the 377, it is not bad, and there is no problem in terms of safety and irritation.

Write here first today.

There are many more behind!

Want to know more about cosmetic raw materials, welcome to contact us!

At present, our consulting services on chemical regulations include domestic new chemical substance declaration, hazardous chemical product registration, hazardous chemical product business license processing, SDS/GHS label production, South Korea K-REACH registration, EU REACH, Taiwan chemical substance registration, drug supplement, medicine, food, food contact materials, cosmetics registration, etc. National compliance services (US FDA, EU notification, Russian EAC, etc.); environmental regulations consulting services include park environmental steward, VOCs online source monitoring project consulting, solid waste hazardous waste comprehensive solution design.

Contact: Miss Ann

Mobile phone number: 15801695345 (WeChat with the same number)

QQ: 1798064165

Electronic E-mail: nar@china-reach.net