Cosmetic Raw Material Efficacy Interpretation Series-Spot-removing Whitening

Release time:

2021-11-03 18:06

Previous article in this seriesCosmetic raw material efficacy interpretation series-preservatives
The "Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics" officially implemented in 2021 has attracted great attention from cosmetics and raw material companies. In terms of the management of new raw materials for cosmetics, the regulations clearly put forward the registration or filing management of new raw materials for cosmetics according to the degree of risk. High-risk raw materials with anti-corrosion, sun protection, coloring, dyeing and whitening functions need to be managed for the record.
We briefly introduce the mechanism and evaluation methods of the common whitening efficacy raw materials on the market.
Part.01
skin color influencing factors

Factors affecting human skin color include:
1. Pigment content such as melanin and carotene in skin;
2. Skin thickness and light scattering on the skin surface;
3. The content of oxygen and hemoglobin and reduced hemoglobin in the blood vessels of the dermal layer of the skin.
One of the main role is the well-known melanin, followed by the thickness and roughness of the stratum corneum of the skin will also affect the apparent "color". The whitening effect in cosmetics is therefore generally believed to act by inhibiting melanin formation or transport.
Part.02
whitening efficacy mechanism
Only when the melanin transfer to the stratum corneum will be observed "black". Melanin is produced under the action of tyrosine. The produced melanin part is absorbed by the capillaries in the skin and excreted from the kidneys, and part moves up to the stratum corneum to affect skin color (eventually falling off with the stratum corneum).
Therefore, most of the whitening ingredients on the market at present achieve the corresponding effect by inhibiting, blocking or affecting the link between melanin generation and transfer, and a small number of products make melanin quickly metabolize from the skin to achieve the whitening effect.
Part.03
Whitening efficacy evaluation method
At present, the methods of whitening efficacy evaluation are human efficacy test method and in vitro method.

1, human efficacy testing

The State Food and Drug Administration No. 17 of 2021 will be "cosmetic freckle whitening efficacy test method" into the "cosmetic safety technical specifications."
This method is a human efficacy test method, which specifies a test method for the efficacy of cosmetic freckle whitening by ultraviolet-induced human skin blackening model.

2. In vitro method

The commonly used methods of whitening efficacy evaluation include tyrosinase inhibition method, melanin content inhibition method, etc. The method evaluates the whitening efficacy of the subject by evaluating whether the subject has the inhibitory function of a specific target. At present, there are also 3D melanin skin models, combined with the test results of whitening preparations on melanin synthesis-related genes, melanin content, transport and degradation, to achieve scientific evaluation of whitening efficacy.

According to the requirements of the "Evaluation Specification for Cosmetic Efficacy Claims" (No. 50, 2021), cosmetics with freckle-removing and whitening effects are required to undergo human efficacy tests. At present, the human body test method (whitening effect) on the market price range of 12-30W, once carried out and can not obtain the expected effect, cosmetics or raw materials enterprises is not a small loss, and in vitro efficacy test method is relatively low cost, can be used as a pre-screening test options.

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